"SOLO WINTER BACKPACKER TOUR" of Amritsar, Srinagar,Gulmarg,Manali,Shimla and Chandigarh.This blog is the third leg of the tour from Kashmir into the state of Himachal Pradesh and Haryana. Toured the hill-stations of Manali and Shimla before finally ending my solo tour in the city of Chandigarh on Thursday(14-3-2013). Returned back to my home in Mumbai on Friday(15-3-2013).

Sunday(10-3-2013) :- A Yak ride  at "SOLANG VALLEY ' in Manali.

Manali(Sunday 10-3-2013) :-Boarded the luxury bus at "Jayanti Travels" at Jammu bus stand at approx 2245hrs on Saturday, the night journey comfortable although normal sleep eluded me.At approx 0400 hrs on Sunday morning our bus stopped at Mandi , a major city in Himachal Pradesh known for its temples.After a brief halt for toilet and tea the bus proceeded onto National Highway 21 on its journey towards Manali.At daybreak got a magnificent view of the river Beas as we entered Kullu valley.The"Kullu-Manali" valley is a favourite summer and winter tourist destination, the winter tourism being in Manali at Solang valley for winter sports and adventure sports. Observed some beautiful white coloured flowering trees along the Kullu valley, this region being famous for apple and other fruit orchards.Manali is approx North of kullu town, at the extreme end of the Kullu valley at an altitude of 2,050 m(6,727 ft). As our bus climbed up the mountains could feel the abrupt change in weather from cool to Cold.We finally reached Manali bus stand at approx 0845 hrs and on alighting the bus was approached by a lodge/ guesthouse agent for accommodation.Quoted my rates, a typical miser as far as accommodation was concerned since i traveled alone and just spent the night in any hotel or lodge, the entire day spent travelling and sightseeing.The agent took me to "Hotel New Neel Kamal" situated just near the bus-stand,checking into "Room Nos 31" having a attached room/bathroom with T.v and hot water at Rs 200/day ! The entire hotel was almost empty as this was the Off-season for tourists and hence i managed a bargain cheap rate in a very decent and conveniently located hotel.In peak summer tourist season this same hotel room could sell at a rental of Rs 1000 or above, a typical supply/demand economic factor.This hotel was situated just opposite the densely forested "Manali Nature Park(Van Vihar)" with snow capped mountains in the background.After a quick hot water bathe and T.v browsing made my way out of the hotel into Manali town.Manali is a small "One horse town"and a straight walk from my hotel led me to the "Mall", the main tourist locality.It was cold akin to Srinagar, the roads deserted and most shops closed barring a few Dhabbas.Saw a travel agency open and inquired about buses to Manali,as i had to depart to Shimla by the earliast bus on Monday(11-3-20130). Manali was an "accidental Tour",happening because i didn't get a direct connecting bus to Shimla from Jammu and did not want to waste a precious idle tour day in Jammu.Booked a ticket costing Rs 450 for the only Shimla bus from Manali ,departing at 0830 hrs from the main Manali bus stand.Happy to have confirmed my onward journey to Shimla decided to have breakfast.Breakfast was a stomach filling local dish of "Baida/Pratha" along with Dahi and pickles.

The "MALL" in Manali  on a cold morning.

                                                                              After breakfast strolled along the Mall, reminding me of a typical European town surrounded on one side by snow-capped mountains.Inquired about buses to Solang Valley, approx 14 Kms north-west from Manali town and was told that there was a bus service at 1100 hrs.Met a young group of students from Bhopal at the bus-stop who were also on a budget sightseeing tour, staying at a Dharamshala at the cheapest daily lodging rentals.They were also intending to board the 1100 hrs Solang valley bus.Inquired about private taxi's to Solang valley but found it astronomic for a single tourist at Rs 800/Car, the rickshaws being slightly cheaper.There was a slight drizzle at approx 1030 hrs, my first experience of March rainfall in India.Manali is also known as the "Valley of the Gods".On returning to the bus-stand at approx 1045 hrs met the Bhopal students and was told that the local bus service was cancelled due to bad weather conditions, the only option being the next 1400 hrs bus or a taxi/rickshaw.The students managed to hire a "Tata Sumo" taxi and asked me to join them, the charges being Rs 100 per person.Our driver was of Tibetan origin named Biju , Manali having a large Oriental population of either Nepalese or Tibetan origin.We finally left for Solang valley ski resort, the journey being through bad roads with a continuous light drizzle, hence chances of mud-slides and traffic jams. On the way we came across many roadside shops selling ski equipment and clothing on hire and we stopped at a shop, the students hiring their ski clothing.At approx 1215 hrs We finally reached Solang Valley, absolutely covered in thick ice akin to Gulmarg , a long queue of cars and buses on the road.We all lighted the car and i took down driver Biju's phone number since i would be on a separate sightseeing expedition compared to the students who were in a group.Saw a small herd of yaks tethered near a camp and went crazy photographing these bovines which i was seeing for the first time in my life.There was a huge tourist crowd and a variety of snow sports, including skiing and snow-scooter driving. The ice playing field was filled with tourists, Solang being very convenient for overnight vacationers from Delhi or Chandigarh.I rode a yak, finding the ride dangerous although slow, the yaks feet abruptly sinking in the snow which had a tendency to throw the rider, akin to "Bull-Riding" seen on television.

"Solang Ropeway".

                                                                                                                                            Since i had visited Gulmarg a few days ago i was not thrilled by the skiing or other ice-sport rides and hence decided to ride the "Solang Ropeway".It was drizzling on the ice slopes, the first instance where i witnessed rain on snow, something different.The Gondola ride takes tourists and skiers to the edge of Mount Phatru at an elevation of 3,200 m (10,000 ft).The skiing season was tapering off with the rapid melting of ice at the base of Solang valley ski resort and hence most of the foreign and professional skiers had already headed back home or to other locations. Purchased a "Gondola Ticket" costing Rs 500 and took a 300 meter ride to the top akin to the first stage Gondola ride in Gulmarg.On reaching the top was greeted with the sight of a white blanket of ice and snow powder.Ice and snowfall conditions are the same all over the World, be it England, Canada, Switzerland, Gulmarg or Solang ski valley resort.as far as skiing was concerned i personally found the slopes of Gulmarg much superior to Solang valley.Strolled around the ski slopes of Mount Phatru and also helped some young men tape their memoirs by videotaping and photographing their photos on their camera.They also photographed me on my camera , memories for posterity. Abruptly it started snowing and i was delighted like a child, never in my life had i experienced snowfall in India.Bizarre weather with drizzling rain at the base of Solang ski resort and light snowfall at a height of 10,000 feet on the ski slopes of Mount Phatru.Spent some time just sitting on the cold snow and enjoying the light snowfall, observing the tourists in various forms of joy and sporting activity.There was a cafeteria near the entrance/exit of the Gondola where i later had a warm cup of tea.I was surprised at the amount of tourists at Solang ski resort since most of the hotels in Solang seemed unoccupied and hence cheap rentals.At approx 1315 hrs decided to ring up our driver Biju and inquire about the time of departure but to my utter astonishment was getting a wrong number reply.Boarded the Gondola and finally came back to Slang Ski resort base at approx 1330 hrs, absolutely happy and satisfied with the ride and view from the top.Unlike Gulmarg there was a variety of ice sport activity and animal rides which included Yaks and pony's. I was now a bit worried of missing the car to Solang, transport being a major problem in this isolated ski resort engulfed in bad weather conditions.I searched amongst the row of parked vans and taxi's but failed to spot the group of students or the driver .I finally decided to catch the local bus and walked along the road to the bus-stop, hoping to spot either the students or the car driver Biju.Walking on the cold icy street spotted a local dhabba and a liquor shop next to it. This was a sign of eternal bliss in the snowy mountains of Solang valley and along with a "kingfisher beer" had a "Noodle soup".After fulfilling my hunger and thirst pangs walked to the bus-stop.A sikh spectacle salesman was also waiting for the bus and i picked up a conversation with him.We realized that the bus must have been cancelled due to bad weather conditions and hence decided to board a rickshaw on shared rental.Boarded a rickshaw at a rental of Rs 100/person , the road being akin to a crater in some sections.At approx 1530 hrs we finally reached Manali town , a lucky escape from being ice-wrecked on a ski-resort.On arrival at Manali bus-stand headed to my hotel room, just a five mins walk.Informed the manager that i would be leaving early morning the next day and payed him the room rental.After refreshing myself left the hotel and headed into the mall intending to explore this small town.Visited the "Manali Masihi Mandali" church, a small Protestant chapel situated next to a hospital.As a catholic i am habituated to attending Sunday mass and do make it a point to visit any Chapel or Church when on tours, irrespective of the Christian sect to which the church belongs.The Chapel was was closed and after inquiries decided to visit the "Clubhouse" an entertainment and outdoors sports club on the outskirts of Manali.At a cost of Rs 50 a rickshaw took me to the clubhouse which had a entrance fee of Rs 20.On entering the "Clubhouse" was surprised to find it empty, devoid of tourists.There were a few indoor games like table-tennis and carrom and some shops. Outdoors was a"Go-Kart" track, the place deserted with just the employees in attendance.Pockets of hard frozen ice was still in existence at the sides of the racing tracks, although there was absolutely no ice formation in other parts of Manali town.The Clubhouse had a large open outdoor entertainment area a beautiful location situated on the banks of the river Beas. Amidst a fast flowing stream of river Beas there was a "Rope-Crossing" and a "Bridge-Crossing" adventure sport, the same absolutely empty. I was the only tourist and was impressed at the beautiful and scenic location of the "Clubhouse" but sad at its commercial flop.The "Clubhouse" was akin to visiting a posh empty shopping mall in Mumbai.

Melting ice in Manali "Clubhouse" complex.

                                                                                 There was large chunks of ice formation on the banks of the Beas in the "Clubhouse" and if a tourist wanted to experience ice formation in Manali then this was the ideal location.Boarded a rickshaw back to Manali town, satisfied that i had visited one of Manali's tourist attractions although surprised at its tourist footfalls.On reaching Manali Mall entered the poshest hotel in the locality "The Kunzam"hotel.Inquired about the hotel tariffs my normal tour itinerary in any city in India or a Foreign Country. The "Kunzam" was a deluxe hotel and had a minimum room price tag of Rs 1900/day. The hotel manager handed me a brochure of the hotels in Himachal Pradesh and the rentals.Tasted Manali's famous street "Gulab Jamuns", a sweet specialty of this town sold in Dhabbas as well as on the Mall road pavement.Walked towards my cheap economy hotel, astounded at the room rates of the "Kunzam" just five minutes walk from the "New Neel Kamal" also on the same Mall road.Entered the "Manali Nature Park(Van Vihar)" situated just opposite my hotel, the entrance fee being Rs 10.There were a few visitors inside the park and a lady with a furry animal resembling a cat caught my attention.On approaching the local lady realized that she was clutching a beautiful "Angora Rabbit", exhibiting the pet to tourists and charging for photographs with the pet.In India the Kullu valley is famous for "Angora rabbit farms" which provide wool. I took a photograph with holding the rabbit, akin to my cat.The lady was willing to sell me her rabbit for Rs 2000 and she would be surprised if she saw my cats back home in Mumbai, my white Persian cat "Matahari" being an exact replica of the Angora rabbit, barring the "rabbit Face".It was past 1830 hrs and getting dark.The garden had tall Pine trees popularly called Deodar trees and the economics of this garden through "Wood Harvesting" was explained to tourists on a sign-board. I was amazed at the profits running into crores of rupees, the trees being replenished once cut for wood harvesting, the regeneration process taking years.It was now dark and i was happy to tour the town at night for "Street food", something i missed in Srinagar due to the "Kashmir Bandh".

With a "Angora Rabbit".

                                                    Walked in the opposite direction of the Mall road away from my hotel and discovered a street "Fish/chicken Dhabba".This roadside dhabba was run by a Sikh and tasted their fried fish which was well prepared and tasty.After a fish snack walked further down the road and entered the poshest hotel in Manali,"Hotel Piccadilly".The tariff rates in the Piccadilly ranged from Rs 200 to Rs 6000, a beautiful , large hotel. The "Piccadily theatre" was adjacent to the hotel, the movie "Sahib,Biwi Aur Gangster"currently playing at the theatre.Eating on the street was a nuisance and inconvenience, besides my hotel was just a few minutes away and hence decided to buy a beer and cart some street food to my hotel.From Piccadily hotel walked back to the mall and purchased a bottle of beer returning to the Dhabbha and taking a parcel of "Chicken/Fish/Roti's" to my hotel.Watched T.v while sipping beer and eating chunks of fried food.Sometimes unplanned destinations seem to be some of the best in a tour itinerary and honestly, the accidental tour of Manali was memorable.If there was a connecting link bus from Jammu to Shimla then i would have never had toured Manali, a tour destination by default!Sometimes, it seems that misfortunes happen for the good.

Christ Church Cathedral in Shimla. A Landmark on the Ridge.

Departure Manali and arrival Shimla.(Monday 11-3-2013):-Woke up early as usual and after the normal bath and toilet made my way out of the hotel. Today also happened to be my birthday which was akin to any normal day in my daily living itinerary.After the age of 50 years i believe that celebrating a birthday is akin to a reminder notice of approaching degeneration of a humans body.Hence i never ever wish any of my contemporaries on their birthdays neither do i expect them to wish me! Call me weird, but that just my logic.The walk to the Manali bus stand was a short five minutes walk, myself an early bird.Had breakfast consisting of Samosa and Gulab Jamun at a restaurant mear the Mall.The streets were empty, too early for tourists or locals.After breakfast made my way to the bus-stand, the bus named "Krishna" already parked in its allotted slot. Checked my baggage into the dicky and charged Rs 20 for two packages.The bus finally left Manali bus depot at approx 0845 hrs , a scenic route through the Kullu valley with the Beas river flowing on the left side of the highway."White water river Rafting" seemed a popular sport in Kullu with numerous small shops along the riverside advertising "White water Rafting" expeditions akin to ski shops on the Manali highway to Solang ski resort.The route was picturesque and at approx 1145 hrs reached a Dam site on the Beas river, a picturesque mountain valley with a large lake made out of an artificial Dam.At approx 1230 hrs reached Mandi bus terminus , a main bus junction in Himachal Pradesh.This was a semi-luxury bus and hence passengers alighted and boarded the bus at various main bus depots.At 1345 reached "hotel Highway Treat" for a lunch break, myself ordering a "Highway Treat Veg Sp Thali" and Lassi. The thali food was lousy and the Lassi delicious. After lunch our bus began its winding route towards Shimla and for the first time observed terraced farming on the hill slopes.My co-passenger was a local from Shimla who explained me a bit about the city i was visiting, a helpful gentleman.On approaching Shimla our bus stopped at a highway garage at Shalaghat for some minor repairs. This private bus company had only two buses in its fleet, one bus plying between Shimla-Manali while the other was from Manali-Shimla , hence over-stressed. After minor repairs the bus began the last leg of its journey to Shimla.As we began our final ascent towards Shimla the view of the city was amazing, houses and buildings built on the sides of hills, akin to tea-gardens in Ooty, my favourite South Indian hill-station in India.Shimla is home to the legendary Mountain Biking race MTB Himalaya. The event was started in 2005 and is the Biggest event in South East Asia.As a biking enthusiast was fascinated by the hill terrain and unique design of British style cottages and buildings on the mountain hillsides.consists of 7 hills which are 1)Prospect hill 2)Summer Hill 3)Observatory hill 4)Inverarm Hill 5)Bantony hill 6)Jakhoo hill and 7)Elysium hill , all hills inter-connected by road akin to my home city Mumbai once being a city of seven Islands.Shimla is the Capital of Himachal Pradesh with most of the city lying between altitudes of 1950 to 2300 meters. My co-passenger showed me certain important landmark sites that was visible from the bus. We finally reached Shimla bus stand at approx 1830 hrs, just before sunset.At the bus-stop a few hotel agents approached me and i explained my hotel budget to one of them who agreed to provide the same.The man carried my bag and led me to a guesthouse built on the steps of the hill-side, a steep walk down a flight of mountain steps, merely five minutes walk from the bus-stop."Hello Lodge-Guesthouse" resembled a small bungalow from the exterior but was actually a multi-storied small building along the hill-side, the unique architecture of houses and buildings in Shimla. I was allotted"Room Nos 2" at a rental of Rs 500/day, cheap due to the tourist off-season. It was a spacious room with a television and attached bathe/toilet.After a steaming hot water bathe and browsing through television changed into shorts, the weather being cool and not freezing cold as in Srinagar and Manali.Walked out of the guesthouse with torchlight in hand.Inquired for directions to the "Mall" , a very long walk from ""Hello lodge guesthouse". What frightened me most was missing my way on the return journey as this was my first day in Shimla, besides, it was night with few tourists and locals on the road.A large deluxe hotel , "The Landmark hotel" towered over "Hello Lodge-Guesthouse"on the main road which was called "Circular road".This hotel was my landmark for finding the tiny"Hello Lodge-Guesthouse" located down a flight of hill steps in a small passage next to the famous"Hotel Landmark".Had to climb the steps of another small hill to reach the main road leading to the"Mall" and the "Ridge". A Elevator in Landmark hotel situated in "Circular Road" would have directly taken me to "Mall road" on the upper hill instead of walking these flight of steps.On climbing the stairs and entering Mall road inquired for directions, another long straight walk uphill.Shimla was the "Summer Capital" of the British Empire upto Independence in 1947 and hence their imprint was clearly visible on Mall road.Having visited and stayed in England which included London had a practical idea of British villages and City's. Shimla city in the Mall locality was an exact replica of a English town.

Monday(11-3-2013) :- "SCANDAL POINT" in Shimla. My 53rd Birthday on Planet earth at Scandal point.

There were numerous small shops on the Mall road,replica's of cute British cottages, most closed as it was It was dark and the street lights dimly lit, the Mall bustling with people in Winter clothing, some sitting on benches near "Scandal Point" , the infamous tourist spot on the Mall.On reaching "Scandal Point" saw a illuminated church with its steeple in the distance on a uphill road called "The Ridge".On approaching the illuminated church building realized that this was the famous "Christ Church" of Shimla, affiliated to the Protestant Church of North India, a name-sake and branch of my own Alumni, Christ Church school in Mumbai. Christ Church of Shimla was the second oldest church in North India built in 1857 and now a prominent landmark of the city.The Church gates were closed the entire area beautifully lit with prominent statues of Mahatma Gandhi and Indira Gandhi on "The Ridge" locality.Strolled in the cold night along the Ridge and Mall admiring the beauty of Shimla from this elevation. One of the most beautiful landmark of Shimla at night was the "Lord Hanuman Statue" on Jakhoo hill, the highest point in Shimla at an altitude of 8,000 feet .This is the World's tallest Hanuman statue brilliantly illuminated in the dark night when observed from the Mall and the Ridge.The Statue is akin to the World famous "Christ the Redeemer" statue in Rio de Janeiro as seen in postcards and media.After a brief tour of the Mall and the Ridge made my way back to " Hello Lodge-Guesthouse", a bit nervous about the route, my first bold solo outing in a entirely new hill-station city.Took the wrong road uphill and inquired for directions with a local gentleman who told me that in Shimla all roads were either uphill or downhill and a person could never get lost.I realized his definition when this uphill road later had a bifurcating downhill road that led me to the original mall road, a jig-saw puzzle of lanes in this exotic Hill-station City.On reaching the"Landmark hotel" made my way down the flight of steps which had small "Dhabba Shops" on either side of the narrow passageway and called "Bawa Market". A Sikh Dhabba had excellent chicken and fish displayed and i purchased some fried fish and chicken.On inquiries of beer was told that there was a wine shop just at the end of the steps on the main road.Collected my "Dhabba dinner" and after purchasing a Kingfisher beer made my way towards "Hello Lodge-Guesthouse", the famous "Landmark Hotel" being my personal landmark for this insignificantly located guesthouse.The weather in Shimla was pleasant and cold, warm winter clothing sufficient, myself the only tourist in shorts!At approx 2030 hrs entered my guesthouse room and switched on the television, relishing my drink and fish fry/chicken/roti while watching different channels.As mentioned the cough syrup purchased in Srinagar had done wonders and i spent the night in relative peace, much better sleep than the almost sleepless chilly cold nights in Srinagar

"SHIMLA ICE RINK(Winter)" :- The first in Asia and source of numerous Hindi Films.

Shimla-Day 2 (Tuesday 12-3-2013):-:- Woke up early as usual, a quick hot water bath and later the television browsing.Having lived in ice-cold Srinagar and Manali the ambient early morning temps of Shimla seemed pleasant, slightly colder than Mumbai. Left my guesthouse at approx 0700 hrs and took yesterdays route towards the Mall, very few early morning walkers on the lonely street.On reaching the end of "Circular road" began climbing the stairs of "Bawa Market", hoping to find a tea-stall open and lucky to find just a single shop open. after a hot cup of tea made my way towards the "Mall", the road being straight and direct on an inclines slope.

Suddenly at approx 0745hrs just before the main entrance into Mall street heard the loud bark of a dog from the left side of the road.On glancing in that direction observed a dog halfway up a small tree branch barking at a small animal which i mistook to be a monkey.On closer observation with my binoculars noticed that this small animal was a wild cat and not a monkey.The dog got down the tree and soon its place was taken by a pair of Macaque monkeys that attacked this cat and chased it to the top-most branch of a barren tree.Soon the jungle crows also joined the monkeys in harassing the cat, crowing loudly.Providence had put me at the right place at the right time . There were few people on the street and it was a real-life animal encounter drama happening right in one of the busiest localities of Shimla, just before the entrance into Mall/Ridge . The bust of former Prime Minister Lal.Bahadur.Shastri was just a few meters away from this cluster of trees in which the jungle cat and monkeys were at tenterhooks.I photographed and also made a video-tape of the entire saga,finally walking away from this Wild-life drama hoping that the wild-cat escaped.I write on various topics and subjects besides my personal tours. Check out this rare jungle cat V/s Macaque Monkey encounter on "Pictures of Cats(P.O.C) on this link :-http://pictures-of-cats.org/Small-Wild-Cat-Attacked-by-Monkeys-and-Crows-2.html .Walked onto Mall road main square, the roads gradually filling with people.Ridge road and Mall road are two adjacent roads, with Ridge road being the upper incline while Mall road is the lower incline road, the most beautiful tourist locale for shopping or just sitting on a bench and observing people.A Bust of Indian freedom fighter Lala Lajpat Rai adorned the entrance to Ridge and Mall road near "Scandal Point".Breakfast consisting of Channa Bhatura/Puri and a sweet Lassi was at "Prem Chat Shop(Since 1935)"situated on a by-lane on Mall road.

"MALL ROAD".

                                                 At approx 0915 after finishing breakfast walked back to "Scandal Point" and was approached by a taxi agent for a shared tour of Khufri and a few other tourist sites, the total amounting to Rs 400.I agreed to the plan and paid him an advance of Rs 200 agreeing to meet him at "Scandal point" at 1000 hrs .Strolled around the area and came across the "Gaiety Theatre" which i first mistook to be a cinema theater.The theater was empty and read a signpost indicating "Guided Tours" of the theatre and realized that it was a drama theatre.Decided to visit the theatre later in the day as the guided tours began at 1100 hrs.On returning to Scandal point the taxi tour agent told me that he couldn't gather the required amount of tour passengers and hence cancelled the tour.He was willing to conduct an individual tour if i hired the entire taxi to which i refused. He finally refunded my money and guided me to the "H.P.T.D.C" office situated near the place we were standing inquiring with the office manager if there were seats available for the daily morning tour.I was lucky to get a seat in a "15 Seat H.P.T.D.C Van", the tour beginning at 1100 hrs.The tour fees were Rs 250/person and i was told to report at the office at 1045 hrs.While strolling along Mall road came across the local fire brigade terminus, a small office. I was surprised to see a Royal Enfield "Motorcycle fire engine" in the office garage useful for negotiating the steep mountain hills compared to normal four wheeled vehicles.This motorcycle was immaculately maintained, akin to a Vintage motorcycle. Inquired about the famous"Shimla ice skating club", the oldest ice-skating rink in Asia built by the British in 1920 .The Ice rink was situated downhill from the Ridge with Tibetan village shops on one side of the downhill road leading to "Shimla Ice-skating club". The club was now just a ordinary open lawn, akin to a tennis court. In freezing winter it is converted into an Ice rink for ice skating with a "Ice Skating Carnival"held every year in December.After viewing the rink walked back the inclined road onto the Ridge and into the "H.P.T.D.C(Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation)" office". All the tourists were gathered at the office and we were told to board the bus at the "Rivoli bus stand" situated next to the "Ice Skating Rink". I was the only solo tourist amongst families and a couples.We finally boarded the small mini-bus at approx 1115 hrs, myself getting a window seat on the front row.The skiing hill resort of Kufri is approx 16 Kms from the Mall.A Guide accompanied us and our bus began its journey towards Kufri. En-route we picked up three more elderly tourists, the bus now at maximum occupancy of 15 tourists.The route was typical mountain country, narrow and dangerous mountain roads. At approx 1140 hrs reached a area called"Wildlife Sanctuary" which gave a beautiful view of the dense evergreen pine forests from the highway road.We stopped at this spot for a few minutes, a pair of yaks tethered at the side of the road.After a brief stop we began our onward journey towards Kufri and for the first time seeing ice formation on sides of the highway. At approx 1210 hrs we reached Kufri ice point where the entire hill-side was covered with frozen snow.Our bus stopped here for a few minutes for us to enjoy the snow and ice. A young group of students from Hyderabad were on the tour bus and they went crazy seeing snow and ice, presumably experiencing the same for the first time in their lives.After a brief stop at "Ice point" in Kufri we carried on with our journey reaching the village ofFagu, about 6 kms from Kufri. Fagu village got its name due to the dense fog that envelops this village in Winter.Fagu was famous for its terraced potato farming akin to tea estate farming.There was still patches of ice on some of the stepped fields along the mountainside. Visited the "Apple Blossom" hotel complex in Fagu , a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains from this posh hotel resort.From Fagu we drove back towards Kufri reaching the "Himalayan nature Park" at approx 1300 hrs.On entering the park was thrilled to view animals in large enclosures with melting ice on the ground, the first time i had viewed animals in snow conditions in a zoo.The animal enclosures were fabricated on the mountain steps and it was a circular walk along the enclosures of this small zoo.For the first time in my life saw the "snow Leopard", a lone specimen in this zoo.Exit from the zoo led to the "Cafe Lalit", a refreshment hotel where we had our lunch.This area was also called Chini Bugalow(Chinni Bangla) and has historic significance for after signing the "Shimla Pact" , the Prime Minister of India Mrs Indira.Gandhi and the her Pakistan counterpart President Zulfiqar.Bhutto came to this garden for relaxation. I ordered a "Chinese Chowmein" parceling half the dish as it was excessive for my stomach capacity. Finished lunch by 1415 hrs and while making my way towards the tour bus suddenly felt someone snatching my food parcel which i held with my hands behind my back.On turning saw a huge macaque monkey run away with my lunch packet, hilarious to the onlookers and a amazing experience for me. I have been pick-pocketed a few times in my life but never by a monkey! The Macaque went on a para-pit wall and hungrily opened the polythene bag gobbling my food while i photographed it from just approx 20 meters! Shimla city has the maximum number of macaque monkeys compared to any other Indian city i have visited with warning signboards on Mall road warning people to beware of monkey attacks.Monkeys are held sacred in Shimla and hence never ever harassed by the locals and tourists, roaming the streets brazenly akin to normal humans.I had experience "Monkey Robbery" first hand at Kufri , just 16 Kms away from Shimla city. Our bus made its onward journey to Naldhera, approx 23 Kms from Shimla and famous for having one of the Country's oldest Golf course designed by Lord Curzon, the British Viceroy of India.

"ETERNAL LOVE" etched on a tree.

                                                                                We reached Naldhera golf course at approx 1530 hrs hrs which has a thick cedar forest and is a picnic ground for tourists and visitors.We were allotted a certain time-frame by our guide for sightseeing and pony rides across the golf course hill, a typical format in any "Package Group Tour".I walked up the hill and saw a beautiful sight of a pony grazing alone amidst the Cedar trees.Observed Langur monkeys for the first time during my tour, the monkeys in Shimla and its surroundings being Macaque monkeys.The topography and wild-life of Naldhera was definitely different from Shimla,Langur monkeys being the main dominant monkey species of these forests. Some lover or a couple had carved a beautiful heart shape imprint on a Cedar tree, akin to a tattoo or graffiti ,only difference being that this graffiti was on a living tree, memories of love left to nature.The view of the surrounding hills and mountains was beautiful from Naldhera. Naldhera was our last guided tour visit and after everyone returned to the bus we began our return journey to Shimla city. We finally reached " HPTDC'S THE LIFT" at approx 1745 hrs, a building that had a lift service that transported people from the lower road to the main Mall road.Vehicles are not allowed into the "Mall/Ridge roads" and hence all tour buses and private vehicles made the "HPTDC LIFT" building their last stop for dropping off tour passengers.Normally we use "Lifts(Elevators)" in buildings or offices but for the first time in my life i was using a lift to go from one road to another road of the city. Charges to use this unique lift were Rs 10/person, the lift being in two stages.The First stage took passengers to mid-level and the next stage directly onto the main "Mall Road". On alighting from the lift on Mall road headed towards"Gaiety theatre" hoping to catch the last guided tour of the day of this heritage theatre since i would be leaving Shimla the next day. As a theatre addict myself, play attendance was a common routine in my entertainment portfolio back home in Mumbai and hence visiting Shimla and not viewing the "Gaiety Theatre" was akin to visiting Agra and not seeing the Taj Mahal!.

On the Stage of historic   "Gaiety Theatre".

                                                                                                                                              Sadly, the theatre tours were closed for the day and hoped to make it tomorrow in a tight time schedule.Purchased a parcel of "Mutton Pattice' and a cake at "Trishul bakers and Confectioners", a shop situated at the extreme corner of "Gaiety theatre" premises, facing the Mall road. After collecting the food parcel made my way back towards "Hello Lodge-Guesthouse" and spotted a cybercafe near the end of Mall road.Entered the cybercafe and spent about half an hour just browsing, keeping in touch with the Cyber-world.Made my way towards "Bawa Market" and purchased a "Fish Fry" from my now familiar Sikh Dhabba shop and further down a Kingfisher beer from my familiar wine shop, my dinner recipe for the night.On arrival at my guesthouse informed the Guesthouse manager that i would be leaving my lodge room tomorrow afternoon.The check-out time was noon to noon and hence i requested him to keep my luggage in the lobby since i would be sight-seeing the city and returning to the lodge at approx 1300hrs.He agreed and i was relieved, a very normal procedure in all hotels or guesthouses for tourists travelling on a budget economy.After a steaming hot bathe in my room spent the night watching t.v and having "Dhabba style dinner" with a little beer.Had a peaceful nights sleep devoid of chronic coughing that plagued me throughout my tour up-to Srinagar.

"VICEREGAL  LODGE":- Summer residence of the British Empire in India.

Shimla-Day3(Wednesday 13-3-2013):-Woke up early at 0530 hrs and after a quick hot water shower checked out of my room handing over the key to the manager.Kept my baggage in the guesthouse lobby and at approx 0600 hrs headed into the cold morning, a real early sightseeing bird. Today was my last day in Shimla, would be departing to Kalka by the "52458/Shimla Kalka Passenger" train at 1425 in the afternoon.Bizarrely, today would also be the most hectic and tiring day of my tour .Had planned to trek to the highest mountain in Shimla, the "Jakhoo hill" and later visit the former "Viceregal Lodge" , "St Michaels catholic church" and finally "Gaiety theatre".Akin to running your own business or being your own boss, the beauty and thrill of "Solo Backpacking" was that as a tourist you decided and altered your tour format as per circumstances and situations.I was now heading towards "Jakhoo Hill", the lone walker on a cold Wednesday morning.It was a long walk to the Ridge from my guesthouse on "Circular road".. A Sign-Board at the entrance to Jakhoo hill on Ridge road had a "Age/Time-limit chart" for trekkers to judge their physical fitness in climbing to the peak of this hill approx 2 Kms from the Ridge, akin to a "Height/Weight chart" used at Gymnasiums.I had observed a few early morning joggers around the Mall and now realized that there also could be many fitness trekkers daily trekking to Jakhoo hill and back.Began my trek at approx 0630 hrs, a steep uphill climb, terribly exhausting at the young age of 53!I was averaging at least 10 Kms of walking everyday since my arrival in Amritsar on Sunday(3-3-2013), besides, had a few sleepless nights due to chronic coughing.There were numerous monkeys and just a few humans on the narrow road, a frightening walk since these monkeys could be aggressive and try snatching my binoculars or camera.Picked up a stick on the road, a insurance against any monkey attacks.Thankfully it was a safe walk to the peak of Jakhoo hill situated at an altitude of 2455 meters on which the Jakhoo temple is built.Reached Jakhoo temple at approx 0705 hrs, happy that my physical fitness levels according to the "Jakhoo hill fitness chart" was that of a 30 year old man and not of a 53 year old man ! Did someone say that chronological age is just a numerical number ?

Tallest "HANUMAN " Statue in the World.

                                 The towering statue of Hindu God Lord Hanuman towers from the Peak , erected outside the main temple premises.This 108 tall feet statue of Lord Hanuman is the tallest Hanuman statue in the World.The statue looks imposing from the Ridge and the Mall area, both during the day as well as at night when brightly lit up with lights.A few young Indian tourists were at the Peak before my arrival and i requested them to remove my photograph, memories of visiting"Jakhoo hill".After a brief stay at the top viewing the scenery of the surrounding hills began my descent back to the Ridge.On the way down stopped by at "Rothney House" the home of Indian Congress founder Mr Allan .Octavian.Hume during his residence in Shimla. "Rothney Castle " built in 1838 by Colonel Rothney was originally known as"Rothney House" and over the decades changed numerous illustrious owners, the house's most famous owner being Mr Allan.Octavian.Hume who was also a active Ornithologist.This house was presently owned by the ancestors of Lala Chunna Mull of Delhi who purchased it in the beginning of the first quarter of the Twentieth century.The house is still preserved in some sections in its original form, a heritage structure, located in one of the best localities in Shimla having a magnificent view of the entire city and hills.As i descended the hill observed a few other old heritage bungalows , the descent being quick compared to the steep ascent.Came across school students in school uniforms on their way to school, definitely a strenuous daily walk either uphill or downhill as no road is totally flat in Shimla.On reaching the base of the Jakhoo hill on the Ridge at approx 0800 hrs came across the oldest bungalow built on the Ridge,most parts of the Bungalow being of wood fabrication and preserved in its original form.The View from a "Balcony" near the Tudor building of the Shimla Library was mystifying in the early morning hours.

                                                                                  The Municipal building is a prominent heritage building located on the Ridge besides the library and "Gaiety Theatre". Photographed a lot of the buildings in the Mall and Ridge locality , noticing a unique feature i had never seen in any other building construction in India.The roofs of some of the heritage buildings in the Ridge and Mall had glazed stone tiled roofs, not the normal brick tiles or sheet metal.After satisfying my sightseeing curiosity of the Ridge and Mall decided to walk towards my next sightseeing locale which was the former "Viceregal Lodge" ,situated approx 4 Kms from"Scandal Point" .Thanks to the cold weather , i managed to trek to the highest point in Jakhoo hill and now an attempt of walking 4 Kms to the "Viceregal Lodge", the Summer residence of the British Empire upto 1947. Today this historical edifice house the "Indian Institute of advanced study" and is also preserved as a historical museum.It was a long walk and on the route came across some historic British era designed buildings and bungalows.Came across the "Gorton Castle" a huge Indo-Gothic building of the British era in Shimla situated on a small hill-top akin to a castle and hence the name. Further along the road came across "The Retreat",built in 1905 and residence for the Viceroy Council's executives.Post Independence it has now been converted into the residence of the Army commanders of the "Western Command Army", a aristocratic Bungalow.Just a little futher was the famous "Cecil Hotel", synonymous with the "Oberoi Group of Hotels". Entered the "Cecil Hotel" at Chaura Maidan built by the British in 1884 and which has a historical connection to the famed writer Rudyard.Kipling.. This hotel was later purchased by one of its employees Mr Raj.Bahadur.Mohan.Singh.Oberoi who later built the "Oberoi Group" of luxury hotels, the ultimate success of capitalism economics.The hotel looked insignificant from the road but was a luxury palace in the interior with luxury rental charges fit for "Money Royalty". Collected a hotel brochure from the manager and made my way towards the "Viceregal Lodge", a very long walk with a magnificent view of the Himalayan ranges.The British had re-created a part of Britain in Shimla through their unique architecture. On entering the gates of the "Viceregal Lodge" now called "Rashtrapati Niwas" was surprised at the size of the palatial estate ,another long walk towards the main building.The imposing Scottish architecture of the building was designed by Henry.Irvine and built in 1888. The estate and building has to be visited personally in order to admire its unique location on the Observatory Hill.This building was first used as the residence of British Viceroy Lord Dufferin and subsequently by other Viceroys.It has sprawling gardens and forested Pine trees in the hills.The historic "Shimla Conference-1945" took place in this building as well as the decision to partition India ,Pakistan and East Pakistan( Bangladesh)in 1947.

Inside the historic "VICEREGAL LODGE".

                                                                                                                                The building now served as the center for the Indian Institute of Advanced Study (IIAS).Research scholars from different corners of the country and abroad assemble here for debates and discussions. At approx 0930 hrs reached the reception centre which was a small building facing the "Viceregal lodge". Purchased a entry ticket costing Rs 50 which included a guided tour and camera charges.The guided tour, the first tour of the day was scheduled at 1015hrs and hence i spent the intermediate time strolling through the aristocratic and historic grounds of the "Viceregal Lodge".A group of Caucasian tourists were being given a lecture on the history of the building and its importance. An elaborate tea- table with chairs was set up on the main lawn facing the "viceregal lodge", a tea-party for either "V.I.P" tourists or guests definitely not the "Mad Hatters tea-party". The Indian tourist crowd gradually started arriving and at 1015 hrs we all gathered at the entrance of the building. The tour-guide was punctual and conducted the tour as schedule. As a history scholar i was spell-bound on entering this hallowed institution practically feeling and experiencing a part of Indian history. The wood furniture was all Burma teak and we were shown different rooms on the first floor of this imposing building.One of the rooms had a "Walnut wood Ceiling" that has not been polished till today !The second floor was used as a research study centre and hence not open to tourists.We were shown the historic table on which the partition document was signed.The room had photographs of the British Viceroys and Indian politicians of that era involved in the Independence movement.We were also shown the historic clock of that era that functions to this date.A part of the ground floor has been converted into a library for research study by students.We all were busy with our camera's and the tour lasted about half an hour.Exiting this historic building made me happy,my tour of Shimla was almost complete having viewed almost all the heritage and tourist sites barring the historic "Gaiety theatre". At approx 1045 hrs began my 4kms walk back to the Mall to visit "Gaiety theatre". Passed by the "Vidhan Sabha" building of Himachal Pradesh,the horses of the Shimla mounted police standing outside the main gates along with police escorts.Further along the straight road 2 Kilometers ahead came across the "Landmark hotel", a now familiar landmark since the last 2 days stay in Shimla.Decided to visit St Michaels catholic church as a sign board indicated that it was somewhere in the Mall road vicinity.Finally managed to find my way to St Michaels Cathedral, situated on the hill just below Mall road after the Jalandhar military cantonment gates.St Michael.Cathedral was built in 1885, the first Catholic church in the hill station when Lord Ripon(A catholic) was Viceroy of India.The Church main gate was open but the church closed for worshipers or tourists.After a brief walk around the small church compound made my exit towards the hill stairs leading to the Mall.A brisk walk led me to the gates of "Gaiety Theatre" at Scandal point.There was not a single tourist at the theatre, myself being the only lone theatre tourist. The entrance fee was Rs 25 and i was given a personal solo tour by Mr Rajendra.Gautam, a retired lawyer by profession with a passion for theatre and its history.Thanks to Mr R.Gautam i got to view the intimate details of this heritage theatre designed by Henry.Irwin and built in 1887 in Gothic design.The main theatre could accommodate more than 300 people with special "Box Seats" for the " Viceroy and "V.I.P'S".The Gaiety theatre was the centre of social entertainment in Shimla with Viceroy Lord Lytton scripting and staging a play called "Walpole" and Rudyard.Kipling himself acting in a play at the theatre.The Theatre once caught fire and was to be demolished but good sense prevailed and the theatre refurnished.The "Freemason Society" had a special hall in the theatre complex in which they conducted their secret meetings.After Independence the theatre was patronized by the local population but later over the decades degenerated due to lack of maintenance and patronage as other forms of entertainment, most notably cinema ,captured the eyeballs of the younger generation.The Theatre was renovated in recent years and a part of the top floor converted into an auditorium for general purpose in keeping with modern economic trends. The main theatre on the ground floor remains untouched in design, as original as in 1887 when it was built.On the first floor there were postcard photographs plastered on screens explaining the history and plays conducted at this historic heritage theatre.Advocate Rajendra.Gautam was an excellent guide and explained the detailed history of Shimla and the "Gaiety Theatre", himself having visited the theatres in London.All of Bollywoods top actors which include Prem.Chopra, Amrish.Puri and Anupam.Kher have at some time in their career performed at the "Gaiety theatre". Shimla has many theatre groups that stage plays at this theatre and during my presence a young theatre group was practising in the adjacent room on the second floor."Gaiety theatre" is the oldest Gothic theatre in asia and the sixth oldest in the World and soon to be recognized by "U.N.E.S.C.O" as a "World Heritage theatre".At last my entire Shimla tour itinerary was fulfilled, the Gaiety theatre being my last tour stop.Thanked Mr R.Gautam and made my way out of the theatre purchasing a chicken hamburger/Cake at"Trishul bakers and Confectioners" situated in Gaiety theatre premises on the main Mall road.Collected my lunch hamper and made my way to "Hello Lodge-Guesthouse" , a now familiar route.On reaching the guesthouse at approx 1305 hrs picked my luggage and headed towards the railway station.The route to "Shimla Railway station" was a one Km walk past the tunnel on Circular road onto a flight of hill stairs leading to the train terminus situated on the lower elevated hill.The "52458/Shimla Kalka Passenger" was already on the platform, scheduled to depart at 1425 hrs, myself almost an hour early at the station at 1330 hrs.

"Shimla-Kalka Heritage  train".

Shimla-Kalka train travel on "World Heritage Narrow Gauage Railway Line":-The Kalka-Shimla mountain railway has been in existence since 9th November 1903. On July 7, 2008, the Kalka--Shimla Railway was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the World Heritage Site of the"Mountain Railways in India".Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and Nilgiri Mountain railway are the other two Indian railway networks that are on the "UNESCO HERITAGE LIST".There were a total of 7 bogies attatched to the train engine.Made my way into my compartment and was surprised to find the bogie half empty.Consumed my hamper lunch and the train departed the station as per the scheduled time-table.A few of the passengers were from Mumbai. It was a pleasant journey on a half empty compartment as it was the off-seasons for peak tourist traffic.Locals prefer the bus service as it is quicker and faster than the train.The train began its journey from Shimla at an altitude of 2,076 meters (6,811 ft) and gradually made its way to Kalka (656 meters (2,152 ft) with 20 stations in-between and 102 tunnels passed during the journey.We finally reached Kalka station at 2000 hrs , the train a bit early as per the arrival timetable.If you visit Shimla, a ride on the"Shimla-Kalka mountain train" is mandatory to enjoy this entire picturesque region.On arrival at Kalka station inquired about transportation to Chandigarh, the rates by taxi or rickshaw being astronomical and hence decided to stay overnight at a hotel in Kalka. the Weather in Kalka seemed warmer than Mumbai.The local rickshaw driver took me to"Hotel Ambar" where i got the tiniest room, slightly larger than my house gallery along with an attached bathe and T.v.After paying the rickshaw driver Rs 50 and the hotel manager the rental of Rs 420 made my way into "Room Nos 201" just next to the main hotel entrance on the ground floor.After a warm bathe switched on the television and surprised to see terrorist violence erupt in Srinagar resulting in fatalities to security soldiers as well as militants, the same making headline news on all Indian channels.After surfing the t.v channels made my way into the crowded main street to search for dinner and a beer.The strap of my rubber slipper broke and i had to purchase a new pair of slippers at a local footwear shop.Returned back to the hotel room with roadside dhabba food of Fried chicken/Beer, relishing the same in the warm comfort of the hotel room.For the first time in my entire tour i was able to sleep without sweaters or a blanket and instead had switched on the fan.Had a decent nights sleep, getting up early at 0500 hrs.Switched on the television and the news flashing across was the election of the New pope to the Roman catholic church. My prediction as a typical speculator had come true and if betting Country could have made some money on the outcome of the "Papal elections".I had stated that a non-European pope would succeed Pope Benedict the sixteenth.Cardinal Jorje.Mario.Bergoglia of Buenos Aires was elected Pope on Wednesday(13-3-2013), taking the papal name of Francis. After a quick shower and change of clothing checked out of the hotel.It was still dark outside and lucky to get a rickshaw on the main road.It was a short drive to the local Kalka bus depot, the rickshaw charges being Rs 50.It began drizzling and i was surprised at the abrupt change in local weather.Alighted the Chandigarh bus , the bus sparsely full as it was early morning.

"ROSE GARDEN" in Chandigarh on a rainy day. A City of large parks, greenery and gardens.

Arrival Chandigarh and Departure to Mumbai (Thursday14-3-2013) :- It was raining heavily throughout the bus journey, the road to Chandigarh being a well laid highway.Chandigarh was the first planned city in post Independent India,designed by the French architect Le Corbusier, the most modern Indian city.As we descended the foothills of the Shivalik Mountain rages from Kalka and entered the suburbs of Chandigarh i was surprised at the green forest cover of this city.Totally confused regarding the point of alighting for the "Railway station" stop i inquired with a young passenger who was extremely helpful and spoke in English. He explained me that Chandigarh city was divided into "SECTORS" and unlike any other city was known by numerical number of the particular sector, a very spread out city with vast gardens.He told me that the last stop of this particular bus was "SECTOR 43" .He advised me on visiting the various tourist sites that i asked him, hoping to cover the same by 1100 hrs before boarding the train to Mumbai.Sadly, the rain didn't stop and as the bus drove around the city admired the greenery and small three storied buildings of the city. The entire city resembled a National park with a avenue of trees giving way to small townships having an elongated building of not more than 3 storeys.At approx 0700 hrs the bus arrived at "Sector 43" , the last terminus for this bus.It now started raining heavily and i alighted the bus and took shelter in the bus station, a clean and compact station.Inquired about the location for boarding "205 Nos bus" to "Rose Garden", at least hoping to sightsee one tourist location before heading to Mumbai. Managed to sight the "200 Nos Bus" and boarded the same requesting the Sikh bus conductor to inform me on approaching"Rose Garden " bus-stop.The bus was a "First World Bus", absolutely well maintained and gleaming, adding to Chandigarh;s title as the Indian city with the highest per-capita in come in India.It was a short drive to Rose garden , the rain still pouring in Chandigarh, a freak nonseasonal rainfall in the City.Alighted the bus at approx 0730 hrs at the "Rose Garden" stop, the rain pouring and myself getting wet. From the bus took cover under the branches of one of the trees next to the boundary of the garden.The "Rose Garden" has over 825 rose varieties in approx 40.25 acres of land, the largest rose garden in Asia.Potographed the garden in the rain, the resulting photograph being blurred , my only photograph of a sightseeing day in Chandigarh.Thanks to the greenery of Chandigarh and the tree shade i at least didn't get totally drenched, more worried about my camera.Boarded a shared rickshaw and reached Chandigarh station at approx 0800 hrs, the rickshaw charges amounting to Rs 150.Chandigarh station deserves the title of the cleanest railway station in India and made my way to the "2nd class sleeper" rest room inside the station. Changed my clothes in the bathroom and entered the railway canteen situated next to the rest room.Breakfast was omelet bread/Tea, akin to my normal breakfast at home in Mumbai.The rain stopped at around 0930 hrs, myself sad at missing out on some sightseeing, the rain playing spoil sport.Departure time for the "22926/Paschim Express" from Chandigarh was 1120 hrs, hence i just had to spend the next two hours at the station.i was thankful for at least getting a glimpse of "Rose Garden", my only sightseeing tour of Chandigarh city besides getting a faint idea of the City's design through my bus and rickshaw rides.Ventured outside the station and spotted a local tourist shop advertising the city of Chandigarh.Collected a few brochures on Chandigarh city, extremely helpful for a future tour or for other travelers back home in Mumbai akin to my blogs.

The "TRAIN" back home to Mumbai. END OF A MARATHON SOLO BACKPACKER TOUR.

Boarded bogie S9/Seat 63 when the train arrived at the station from Kalka.The entire bogie was filled with young engineering students departing to Pune after a holiday in the hill-stations.The journey back to Mumbai was pleasant, the weather cool, the students involved in typical college bonhomie.Made some acquaintainces on the train amongst the co-passengers and even as a "Solo Backpacker traveler" you are never ever alone. The train reached "Bandra Terminus" on schedule at approx 1500 hrs onFriday(15-3-2013), the end of a marathon solo-tour through three different Indian states and City's. Alighted a taxi outside Bandra station , reaching home in Prabhadevi at approx 1545 hrs.In a fortnight i had visited ski resorts in sub-zero temperatures and finally returned to my coastal city home of Mumbai.Such varied climatic travels within a single Country can happen only in India.